Last night we went out to Marshall, NC to a coffee house we visited on Monday. They mentioned that they had bluegrass music on Thursday evenings so we checked it out. Well worth the visit. Great music by a bunch of people who really love to jam.
Wandering the Blue Ridge
Meanderings through western North Carolina
Friday, April 22, 2011
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
On the Estate
On Wednesday we visited the Biltmore Estate. We'd been to the mansions in Newport before and had some expectations for the mansion proper. Those expectations were met though the Biltmore is a "warmer" building lacking the vast spans of marble that its northeast cousins have replacing marble with vast expanses of wood. Very nice touches
The real highlight of the day was the gardens. We lucked out and visited at a time when many of the favorite flowers were at their height. The Azaleas and the Tulips were spectacular. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
The real highlight of the day was the gardens. We lucked out and visited at a time when many of the favorite flowers were at their height. The Azaleas and the Tulips were spectacular. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
On the Stream
Freestone Blue Ridge stream |
Part of the research, of course, is in the fishing. For that, we enlisted local expert and Orvis Endorsed Guide Brown Hobson. Brown guided out of Jackson Hole for a bit and now resides outside of Asheville. On Tuesday, he brought us to a fishery that's south of town (you know, between Asheville and Tennessee. That one.). In short, a good day of fishing.
Brown Hobson and the boys scout the tail of the pool |
This stream was amazing. Two days after a dumping rain turned other rivers brown but this one was running very clear. When the sun got on the water we could sight cast to fish holding in the deeper runs. This water was testament to how important good land use practices are to keeping the streams in good shape. Of course, a couple of miles downstream is a paper mill that pretty much ruins the water (keep yer yaps shut if this clue helped you figure out the river), but up here it was clear and cold.
As one son said, "Dad, I don't think that's going to fit in the net." That's what you want to hear. |
Most of the fish were taken on nymphs though late in the day I had a fish come up and take a swirl at my strike indicator. Knowing that at least one fish was looking up, I swapped out the nymph rig for a #14 Rabbits Foot Emerger. It took me a few tries to get the drift correct, but eventually the fly got in the lane and a Rainbow surged from the gravel bottom and slammed the fly. Very satisfying.
The only Brown of the day. A wild eight inch trophy. |
At one point, my oldest tired for fishing (yeah, I'm not sure I know what that means either) so I pointed out a big boulder in the middle of a long riffle and told him that would be a good place to go sit and listen to the river. I'll be damned if he didn't spend a good thirty minutes doing just that. Perhaps there's hope for the younger generation yet.
Pretty mountain stream |
I also got to play with the new camera. The Optio W90 I picked up a few months ago has sat in my vest waiting for fair weather (and warmer water) so that I could play with its underwater capabilities. While I won't be winning an Oscar anytime soon, here's the first Rainbow I caught. All of eight inches. Nailed a soft hackle Lightning Bug on the swing.
On the Farm
Monday's event was a trail ride up in the mountains north of Asheville just outside of Marshall, NC. The drive out there was standard highway fare but once we got down towards the town proper it was securely rural.
Marshall is the County Seat of Madison County. It is a small town that looks decidedly Mayberry. Except with an economy that wasn't great before 2008 and is now struggling. They've got the courthouse in the center of town and a single Main street the comprises the entirety of downtown. It's one of those places that is half-way along it's journey from a defunct mountain town and hippy/yuppie enclave. The coffee house survives because of the courthouse across the street and it serves a decent cup of coffee and mundane sandwiches.
Marshall is perched on a small plain along the banks of the French Broad River (wisecracks aside, the name of the river is derived from the fact that it was one of two rivers named the Broad River and it flowed through territory controlled by France way back when). The railroad goes through but the train depot is now an art store. Clearly the world is passing Marshall by.
Outside of town we drove up Route something-or-other, also known as Turnpike Road. Obviously, Turnpike is a North Carolina Mountain word meaning "single-lane, dirt and gravel road that twists and turns and descends precipitously on both sides". We survived the drive mostly because we didn't encounter a car coming in the other direction.
The trail ride was everything one expects from horseback riding when one does it rarely. Fortunately it was short enough to not inflict damage on body parts that are unaccustomed to riding a horse. The views were fantastic and the trail guide, an authentic mountain dude who spoke a language probably more closely related to Scottish than English, was very helpful. Good times.
Marshall is the County Seat of Madison County. It is a small town that looks decidedly Mayberry. Except with an economy that wasn't great before 2008 and is now struggling. They've got the courthouse in the center of town and a single Main street the comprises the entirety of downtown. It's one of those places that is half-way along it's journey from a defunct mountain town and hippy/yuppie enclave. The coffee house survives because of the courthouse across the street and it serves a decent cup of coffee and mundane sandwiches.
Marshall is perched on a small plain along the banks of the French Broad River (wisecracks aside, the name of the river is derived from the fact that it was one of two rivers named the Broad River and it flowed through territory controlled by France way back when). The railroad goes through but the train depot is now an art store. Clearly the world is passing Marshall by.
Outside of town we drove up Route something-or-other, also known as Turnpike Road. Obviously, Turnpike is a North Carolina Mountain word meaning "single-lane, dirt and gravel road that twists and turns and descends precipitously on both sides". We survived the drive mostly because we didn't encounter a car coming in the other direction.
The trail ride was everything one expects from horseback riding when one does it rarely. Fortunately it was short enough to not inflict damage on body parts that are unaccustomed to riding a horse. The views were fantastic and the trail guide, an authentic mountain dude who spoke a language probably more closely related to Scottish than English, was very helpful. Good times.
I held the esteemed station at the rear of the processoin |
Rolling hillsides for miles |
Rusty (at least that's what we called him). I didn't understand a word he said but he seemed knowledgeable, smoked Marlboros and cussed a fair amount. Perfect trail boss. |
A trail ride wouldn't be complete without a cow in the path |
Mad camera skillz and a stylish cap. |
Monday, April 18, 2011
On the Ridge
Mountain Vista |
Not only did someone propose that the spectacular countryside be set aside for protection (mostly) but then some insane genius felt that putting a parkway along the very tops of the mountains was an even better idea. Truly splendid. It is a unique was to appreciate the resource in the most spectacular manner.
Transportation and Jungle Gym |
So it was true with the Blue Ridge. The first stop we made was very nice. Yet, in comparison to what would come, mundane. Opportunities to stop are frequent and the views are designed to be breathtaking. Apparently one of the design points of the parkway is to force you to move at a slow pace and take time to appreciate what you see.
Tunnels are numerous and exciting especially when you're wearing sunglasses. Most are short and when you enter you can clearly see the other end. There were one or two however that were on sharp curves and were longer than most. They provided the special challenge of not only overcoming the fear that Wile E Coyote had painted it on a flat rock face but also dropping the sunglasses, turning on the headlights and not steering into oncoming traffic in one smooth motion. Much fun.
Dogwood |
Route 151 |
The goal for the afternoon was to get to a place called Graveyard Fields and do some hiking. There were waterfalls that were worth seeing and we meant to see them. Graveyard Fields gets its name from the overturned stumps of trees that fell in a large windstorm. Fire eventually erased the remnants of those stumps but the colorful name stuck.
The hiking was relatively easy though long. We covered a little under five miles. The hike criss-crossed meadows, streams, and wetlands. We scrambled up rocking hillsides and were rewarded with views of several waterfalls. More than anything, I got to see my boys doing something other than toying with electronics. Very rewarding.
All in all, a spectacular start to a visit to the area.
Mountain Brook Trout Stream |
Lower Falls at Graveyard Fields |
Looking Glass Rock |
Looking East |
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